2300 miles

2300 miles is a long way to travel. A trip to Glacier National Park requires proper planning.

Last year I was fortunate enough to have logged 105 miles, which isn’t as easy as it sounds. Some of the longer hikes are only 14 or 15 miles round trip.

I’d like to hit the century mark again this year. I spent a good amount of time looking at the calendar, where we would be staying each night, the mileage for each hike and created an itinerary.

When I was leaving work today I saw something that caught my eye. The words jumped at me from the page an open magazine “go where your routine can’t take you.”

So I came back home and started rethinking...Scenic Point, Cracker Lake, Firebrand Pass...this trip is going to be a little bit different. 

Stay tuned...

runner back!

I started running before my freshman year of college. Due to injuries, I stopped running outside after college. Since then it’s been all treadmill. At times, I considered trying to run outside again, but it wasn’t worth getting hurt.

While tallying my miles in Glacier last week, I realized that I would be close to the century mark. Jill had been sidelined after only two hikes, but was being SUPER supportive of my desire to hit 100. I did my best to move quickly on the days she was waiting. 

The hike to Avalanche Lake is short and easy. I downed a liter of water and hit the trail without a pack. What started as a fast walk turned into a jog with a few hard efforts. The rolling terrain was perfect. I finished in an hour and 5 minutes.

Back at the car, I mixed a protein shake and stretched...unable to wipe the smile off my face...I wanted to do it again!

My first hike on the Highline was on an overcast day. The morning of August 11th was sunny and beautiful. We stopped at Logan Pass on our way to Many Glacier. It was a little over 7 miles to the Haystack and back so I planned on being gone for two hours. I unpacked the gear from my Osprey pack, then filled it with a liter of water and couple of shot bloks. 

I passed two large groups and was on my way. For the most part I had a decent view of the people in front and would call out as I approached to pass. Some made funny comments to which I replied “Huckleberry Pie, Huckleberry Ice Cream, Peanut butter Pie, Beer...just paying for my food sins!” I made it to the Haystack in 49 minutes, but figured the return trip would take longer because I am unaccustomed to running that distance...wrong...46 minutes later I was back in the parking lot, hooked on trail running. 

Who wants to join me?

I would walk 100 miles...

Glacier National Park is on fire. Two weeks prior to my arrival, the Reynolds Creek Fire closed a good portion of the Going to the Sun Road. 

Thankfully, my plan was to stay in a lesser visited section of the park first (Two Medicine) and the Sun Road opened on the day I needed to access it.

The first two days were long, 15 mile hikes with amazing views. 

The third day was the longest, 19 miles in epic conditions (rain, hail, thunder, lightning and 50 MPH winds). My reward was a break in the weather and 360 degree views at Swiftcurrent Fire Lookout, the highest maintained trail in the park. 

From there, it was all familiar territory...Avalanche Lake, Hidden Lake, Piegan and Siyeh Passes, Ptarmigan Tunnel, Iceberg Lake, Grinnell Glacier and Grinnell Lake.

When all was said and done I had hiked a little over 105 miles.

Luck was on my side...three new fires began during the course of my stay, closing several of the trails I had hiked earlier in my visit and creating hazy conditions throughout the park. 

I am grateful to have experienced so much beauty and hope the fires are contained soon.

Trail Angels

Occasionally I do things that put myself at risk. Thankfully, it’s always worked out.

In 2012 near the end of a long hike in Glacier National Park I encountered a group of women headed back to the trailhead. It was only three miles, but they kept my mind off the newly formed blisters on my feet which made walking unbearable. 

I hadn’t given that encounter much thought until just recently...

Weather delayed the start of my 19 mile solo hike on August 6th. This put me on a section of the trail that is frequented by bears, much later than I wanted to be on it, especially alone. Just before reaching Swiftcurrent Lookout, a couple coming down the trail passed me and I asked where they were headed. Their response “Many Glacier” was EXACTLY what I wanted to hear. I quickly scrambled up to the lookout and back down to catch up with them for the remainder of my journey.

Similarly, last month while hiking the Presidential Traverse in New Hampshire, I encountered a man and his two sons on the summit of Jefferson. I had already been on the trail for several hours, mostly in silence. Their conversation as we descended was exactly what I needed to lift up my spirits.

There is no doubt in my mind that Trail Angels exist. Here’s to hoping you never need one, but that one is there if you do.

facebook and peanut butter...

I'm quitting both of them for the month of July.

I'll be eating more than enough peanut butter during the first two weeks of August, hiking over 100 miles in Glacier National Park.

In the meantime, you can find me outside being awesome.

Reemerging

The plane touched down at PHL on Tuesday August 21^st at 7:43PM. Nothing says welcome home like a hot, sticky Philadelphia night. 

This trip to Glacier was different than my past visits. This was Glacier on my own terms. My brother and his girlfriend accompanied me, but were gracious enough to allow me to do my own thing.  I covered nearly 60 miles in five days, on my own. It was the best experience I've had in the park so far. I brought a few things with me that I needed to leave there and along the way, I gained more than expected.

“In every walk with nature one receives far more than he seeks.”

- John Muir

Totals

Five Waterfalls: Ptarmigan, Apikuni, Baring, St Mary's, Virginia

Five Lakes: Grinnell, Ptarmigan, Iceberg, Avalanche, Hidden

Six Glaciers: Jackson, Grinnell, Salamander, Old Sun, Sexton, Siyeh

Six Wild Huckleberry Wheat Lagers

Nine Double Decker Peanut Butter and Banana Sandwiches

Three Grizzly Bears, Four Mountain Goats, Two Moose, One Rainbow and several Marmots, Chipmunks and Ground Squirrels.

On Thursday night we were heading into the Many Glacier section of the park and came across several cars, stopped by the side of the road. Everyone was staring into the field at a grizzly sow and her cub. We stood there for several minutes, watching as they made their way across the field, into a wooded area until they were no longer visible. When they were gone from sight, the crowd dispersed and headed back to their vehicles. I watched as they drove off. Several were in large, gas guzzling vehicles, towing campers with propane tanks and cases of bottled water attached to a cargo tray. It seemed a bit ironic. I wondered if any of these people had watched “Tapped” or “An Inconvenient Truth.” I wondered if any of these people would return to the comforts of their home changed by their Glacier experience as much as I have been.

The Glacier Experience: Whitewater Rafting and Whitefish

Day 6: Whitewater rafting on the Middle Fork of the Flathead River, courtesy of Glacier Raft Company, followed by lunch at the Great Northern Brewery in Whitefish, MT.

Lesson learned: Purchasing two six packs of Wild Huckleberry Wheat Lager seemed like an excellent idea after drinking a flight of beer with my lunch. Finding a way to pack them all into my luggage securely later that evening proved to be a challenge. I am happy to report that all 12 bottles made it back to PHL intact.

Whitefish Highlight: A stop at the Red Caboose for frozen yogurt after lunch. HGTV is my favorite channel and House Hunters is my favorite show. A few months ago, there was an episode which featured a couple from Montana who are the owners the Red Caboose.

The Glacier Experience: Waterfalls and Avalanche Lake

Day 5: Apikuni Falls, Baring Falls, St. Mary's Falls, Virginia Falls and Avalanche Lake AKA as hiking all day with a wedgie.

Originally, the plan for the day was a 10.8 mile hike to Otokomi Lake. After speaking with a Park Ranger, who informed me that the hike would be hot and very buggy, I opted for several smaller hikes to waterfalls and Avalanche Lake. It was probably a wise decision, not only to avoid the heat and bugs, but also because I was suffering with an eternal wedgie, courtesy of my last pair of clean pants and undies.

Favorite View: Apikuni Falls

You're able to get so close that you can almost stand underneath it.

And it makes pretty rainbows...

Lesson learned: After five days of consecutive hiking, walking up hill is definitely more pleasant than walking down hill and anything is more pleasant than hiking with a wedgie.

The Glacier Experience: Grinnell Glacier and Grinnell Lake

Day 4: Grinnell Glacier and Grinnell Lake
 

This is my favorite view in the park. I had it entirely to myself for at least twenty minutes.
 

Lesson learned: Glacier water tastes like melted snow

Sometimes the best moments are the ones you can't capture in a photograph...while I was sitting on the rocks, taking in my favorite view I heard a rumbling behind me. It was an avalanche. I quickly grabbed my camera, but it had stopped by the time I was able to record. A few moments later, I heard the noise again, watched and enjoyed.

It was still early when I arrived at the junction for Grinnell Lake, so I made the turn and logged in a few more flat miles. Thankfully, the lake was much less buggy than it was during my last visit. I actually was able to sit for a few moments and enjoy it.

The Glacier Experience: Ptarmigan Tunnel and Iceberg Lake

Day 3: Ptarmigan Tunnel (passing Ptarmigan Falls and Ptarmigan Lake) AND Iceberg Lake

Favorite View: Coming out on the other side of the tunnel was a surreal experience. I stood there, took it all in and said out loud "Wow, this is awesome!" The view was all mine for nearly half an hour until another hiker joined me. It was so quiet that the only thing that could be heard were the sound of my footsteps, walking down the trail to see Old Sun Glacier.

The view on the other side wasn't that bad either...

Lesson learned: Mental toughness

The trip to Ptgarmigan Tunnel was strenuous. On the way down, I reached the junction for Iceberg Lake. Left would take me back to the trailhead, right would add close to five more miles onto the trip, but come with a view of Iceberg Lake. I turned right, promising myself a reward (coffee and donut holes) for the additional effort, but the view alone was worth it.

This was my favorite hike. The trip to the tunnel had stops at Ptarmigan Falls and Ptarmigan Lake, which broke up things nicely. It made the additional, afternoon walk over to Iceberg Lake feel relatively flat and easy. The Lake was a cool 38 degrees and had considerably more ice in it than the last time I visited, but that didn't stop people from jumping in for a swim.

The Glacer Experience: Hidden Lake and Highline to Haystack

Day 2: Hidden Lake and Highline to Haystack  

Surprisingly, I wasn't sore upon waking. I attribute this to the more forgiving nature of the trails in the park. It's definitely a more pleasant jaunt than on any section of the AT I've hiked. 

The trail to Hidden Lake is short and easily accessible, which makes it crowded. I used it as my warm up for an afternoon hike on the Highline Trail. At the overlook, there was a mountain goat hanging out in the shade. It was the closest I came to big wildlife. 

A quick stop at the car, a peanut butter and banana sandwich and I was on my way. This trip wouldn't have been complete without a walk on the Highline Trail. The Highline to The Loop was my favorite hike of the 2010 trip to Glacier. A few months later, I got the coordinates of the trailhead tattooed onto the inside of my left forearm. Needless to say, the first few steps were emotional.

Favorite View...

Lesson learned: The ink was definitely worth it. 

The Glacier Experience: Siyeh Pass

Day 1: Siyeh Pass 

The morning began at the Apgar Transit Center, with transfers at Avalanche Lake and Logan pass before reaching the trail head at Siyeh Bend. 

The specifics: 10.3 miles, 2240 feet elevation gain with a top elevation of 8080 feet. Travel time was approximately 4 and 1/2 hours with a stop for lunch at the pass. 

Favorite View...

Lesson learned: Initially, I was frustrated by the overcast skies. This was touted as one of the prettiest hikes in the park, but I couldn't see much. At the top of the pass, visibility was extremely limited.

Today I learned to appreciate the wildflowers because they were some of the only things that could be seen. I am thankful for the experience because I probably wouldn't have paid much attention to them otherwise.

D173

In six months, this will be my backyard for the week...